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Mario Batali obsesses over his unstuffy flagship in a former carriage house and you reap the rewards. Leave your gustatory inhibitions at the door and gorge on beef cheek ravioli and warm lamb’s tongue, Tuscan doughnuts and saffron panna cotta for dessert, killer Italian wines. And it all tastes that much better when you’re sandwiched between a politico big whig and Gwyneth Paltrow.